Genes of the fittest. Seems silly, right? But what if we weren’t talking about biology? What if we were talking about jeans? The denim material that is deeply rooted in our cultural DNA as well as our actual genetic code?
Throughout the years, jean campaigns have been crossing a line between controversy and inspiration, bringing conversations to the table about everything from gender roles to wordplay, which often push a boundary about more sensitive topics that are celebrated or criticized. Not every ad hits the right target audience, but sometimes it makes you wonder, was it intentional?
Do you ever think about how certain messages seem to go by under the radar, yet still manage to be the main topic in conversations? The answer is the sly use of “dog whistles,” a form of coded communication used and understood by a certain group of people but conveys a secondary message to others. The point of a dog whistle is that not everybody can catch it the first time. They’re used to convey a message to likely push controversy while trying to minimize drawing negative attention. American Eagle’s campaign starring Sydney Sweeney features her lounging, zipping up her jeans while saying, “Genes are passed down from parents to offspring, often determining traits like hair color, personality, and even eye color.” This was a blatant reference to genetics. Then she follows up with “my jeans are blue,” a visual pun that moves away from genetics. A male voice chimes in with “Sydney Sweeney has great jeans,” hitting a double entendre that plays on both “great genes” and “great jeans.”
Critics on social media are highlighting the phrase “great jeans/genes” as told by a blonde-haired, blue-eyed woman, promoting a narrative of superior genetics with heavy racial undertones. They also argued that the emphasis on Sweeney aligning with conventional standards and her genetics being a concept of “good genes” is an example of eugenics; Eugenics is the belief aiming to improve the genetic quality of the human population. Eugenics historically was used to encourage the reproduction of individuals with “desirable traits” and to reduce the reproduction of those with “undesirable traits”.
Considering that the idea of eugenics has a dark history, with a past of forced sterilizations, segregation, and other human rights abuses. One distinct example of eugenics is the “Fitter Family Contests” that were held in the 20s and 30s, where people were encouraged to bring their white, able-bodied families to win an award for having the most “fit” and “desired” family, which is the reason why a lot of people are concerned about the American Eagle ad being an eugenics campaign.
Unlike other jean campaigns that have also played on the jeans/genes wordplay, American Eagle’s campaign focuses more on the celebrity’s appearance rather than the jeans themselves. Calvin Klein’s campaign, featuring Shields, initially inspired American Eagle and also used the jeans/genes wordplay, but took a different approach. In the Calvin Klein ad that starred Brooke Shields, who was fourteen or fifteen years old at the time, Shields discussed the concepts in her science class, mentioning the three main ways genes can be mutated: selective mating, genetic drift, and natural selection. The Calvin Klein campaign’s tagline was that their jeans were the “fittest”, using the concept of natural selection. While both campaigns use the pun, American Eagle’s emphasis on Sydney Sweeney’s “great genes” in comparison to Calvin Klein’s direct claim that their jeans are the “fittest”, reveals a significant difference in their advertising language.
In contrast to the American Eagle’s celebrity-focused campaign, GAP’s recent jeans ad featuring the girl group KATSEYE has resonated with millions of people by simply celebrating diversity. Many believe that diverse representation makes the campaign more appealing, allowing the viewers to see themselves reflected in the campaign as well as the members. GAP’s approach of focusing on each member’s individuality and their background showed a contrast to American Eagle’s campaign. Critics on social media point out the implications in both ads, where American Eagle’s messaging is almost saying, “I look good because of my genetics,” compared to GAP’s message being “We look good because we have GAP jeans.”
Regardless of the backlash from the American Eagle and Sydney Sweeney jeans campaign, American Eagle would likely see a boost in sales and engagement simply from the increased visibility due to brands looking for ways to stand out. Being controversial can be a way to grab attention. By touching on sensitive topics, American Eagle might be trying to evoke conversations and emotions to bring in new customers who could agree on the message.
However, it’s still essential to recognize that benefiting from shock value doesn’t excuse the use of dog whistles or tone deaf marketing. Now that the American Eagle campaign is out of the spotlight, does American Eagle’s increased exposure and potential sales outweigh the backlash and the damage that has been done to their brand?
